The aroma of grilled fish and sizzling peppers drifts through the air. Elegant women in elaborate headscarves meander between shops, taking advantage of Saturday’s slower pace. Between the sights, smells and cacophony of French and Wolof, it feels like Dakar. But this is Harlem’s Little Senegal, an enclave of émigrés in New York City. African supermarkets, call centres and beauty salons line the streets, evidence of the entrepreneurial chutzpah that transformed the once seedy neighbourhood.
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